In the first, 3495, the trees and mill look good, the water is overexposed about a stop and has lost detail and the rocks are a little under exposed.Here are the 3 component images that make up the final HDR image: So I chose a 3 stop bracket using the Shutter Speed, leaving the Aperture and ISO steady. It is important to keep the Aperture constant as to not change the depth of field.įor these shots, as long as I kept the shutter speed longer than 3 seconds I would not have any issues with keeping sharply defined slow moving water to generate the HDR. Some cameras will bracket at most three shots, some 5 and some even 7 or more! You can usually choose to bracket with Aperture, Shutter Speed or ISO. Weather or not you change the ISO or shutter speed is dependent upon the scene or your artistic intent. You can either use the auto bracket mode on your camera to generate your shots or do it manually. You will need to set your camera on a tripod and have it locked down to assure that you get the same exact composition in each shot. If the blown out areas take two or three stops of adjustment to bring them back into range then I will then decide upon how many HDR images are needed to be taken to get the total range covered in 1/2 stop increments. This gives me an idea of just how wide the range of the image needs to be. I will then retake the same image with a negative EV dialed in and re evaluate the image again looking to see if the blown out white areas of the image are now in the proper range. Usually, the blacks will be fine but the whites will be blown out. I will look to see what areas are out range, or totally black or totally white. What I normally do when shooting HDR is to take a test image and evaluate the histogram. Now, 32 bit images are all but useless to us in the real world so the HDR software will compress it down to 16 bits by removing select bits of brightness data without really negatively affecting the view of the image and making it possible to view and print the image! Pretty neat technology don’t you think? Now this requires a image with more data than you can store in a 8 bit JPG image, and even more than your 16 bit RAW, TIFF or PSD image! Now we move into the world of 32 bit images that can hold and display a far greater range of black to white data. With these pictures in hand you can now run one of several software programs available that will combine the best of each of these differently exposed image into one that can display the entire range of of the image from black to white! So, in the world of photography, we have developed the ability to take several photographs, say three to six, each one with a different exposure from way too dark to really blown out. The total range of the light from black to white in your image exceeds what your camera is capable of recording, but our eyes can still see and understand the complete range. You can get a good image of the foreground subject, but the sky is totally blown out, you know pure white. Think of it this way… You are out taking pictures during the brightest part of the day. OK, what is HDR? HDR stands for High Dynamic Range. I also will be using Nik’s Color EFX Pro 4 and Viveza 2 for post processing (fine tuning) after the HDR conversions are finished! Overview: I will take you through the post processing for the following HDR tools: OK so let’s get to it! From this point on, we are going to be working with the same three source files. I used the 60mm lens on the camera along with a 10 stop ND filter in order to slow it down! While there was not a lot of water flow there was enough to make the images very nice. Notice that the mill did have some running water which forced me to use very long exposures in the range of 10 to 5 seconds in order to slow the water down. The X Pro 1 camera has an unfair advantage over most other camera systems, it has a wider dynamic range and can capture more image data! While the main focus was shooting in Infrared and its associated post processing, I needed to provide loaner IR camera systems to those who did not yet own one, so even though I own three IR systems I was forced to shoot color! The sky each day was free of clouds and very bright, so if I wished to photograph in color I was forced most of the time to shoot HDR images in order to overcome the dynamic range of the day! A lot of the time I was able to successfully capture an image with The X Pro 1 in a single shot like the one shown here on the right of the Glade Creek Mill. Maximum Brightness – 900 Tone-Mapping Midpoint – 1.20 Paper White - 170.The Glade Creek Mill, Fuji X Pro 1 with the VC 12mm lens There are two HDR options HDR10 PQ and HDR10-SRGB.
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